Steel Feather by Anders Helseth currently has 2 models of jeans. The first is the SF01XX and the second is the SF02XX. Both models have a selvedge train-track split back pocket, which will become increasingly visible with wear. All denims are woven on vintage Toyoda shuttle looms, by a small family-owned denim mill in Okayama, Japan.
The first edition of Steel Feather jeans, the SF0121, featured a zip fly, super slim fit, and weighed in at a whopping 21 Oz. The combination of a really slim silhouette and superheavy Oz. denim was at the time not so common. And it was the first of its kind sporting a hand-crafted zip fly (created by Waldes, Japan). The zip itself was inspired from a 1940s Conmar design. The yoke lining and pocket bags was constructed with a rare Nihon-Menpu fabric, dubbed chameleon hickory for its colour changing affinity.
The SF01XX fit is only available in the SF0121 jeans, which are mostly sold out.
The second edition of Steel Feather jeans. This time with a selvedge button fly, and a slim tapered fit. Three versions were released in this fit, the SF0215 (15 Oz.), the SF0216 (16 Oz.), and the SF02AI (14 Oz.). Each version has different characteristics, although difficult to tell apart at first (especially on pictures). All the jeans use ecru cotton twill for the yoke lining and pocket bags.
The SF0215 uses a 15 Oz. denim that was specially designed by the master weaver to be a close reproduction of 50s-denim, with pure synthetic indigo. The SF0216 uses a 16 Oz. slubby and lower tension weave denim, with a red caste which makes the hue slightly more purple. The SF02AI uses a 14 Oz. smooth denim with a warp that has been rope dyed with natural and plant-based indigo (Ai).
A work in progress.